Enclosures Main Page

There are three categories of shower or tub enclosures; "framed", "semi-frameless" and "frameless". Framed enclosures use metal framing around each piece of glass which makes up the enclosure; there are no exposed edges of glass. Semi-frameless enclosures provide an intermediate step with narrower bands of framing and no framing at all on the top and handle side of the door. Frameless enclosures are designed to minimize the use of framing without sacrificing the structural integrity of the unit; we use as little metal as is possible to provide a safe and structurally sound installation.

There are 2 general categories of metal framing; aluminum and brass. Aluminum framing can be anodized or painted in a wide variety of different colors and is the least expensive framing option. Brass framing can be polished or plated (chrome, nickel, gold, etc) to take on a variety of different finishes. Brass and plated brass provide for a more lustrous, high-end appearance than aluminum and have a greater lead time and higher cost. Real brass provides a beautiful appearance but does not come with a finish warranty- brass will almost certainly require maintenance in the form of polishing.
The largest component of a tub or shower door is the glass. Clear glass is currently the most popular option and can be decorated with a wide variety of borders or patterned etchings. Clear glass tends to "disappear" thereby presenting less of a visual barrier than some other glass options which makes the bathroom feel larger. Keep in mind that it requires regular cleaning to maintain its appearance. Tinted glass is also a transparent glass option. It lends itself better to bright bathrooms since the glass can appear dark. Obscure glass is a rough-rolled, translucent glass option available in a variety of patterns (options vary depending on the style of the enclosure, the manufacturer and the size). Obscure glass provides more privacy and is easier to keep clean but it also presents more of a visual barrier thereby making a small bathroom feel smaller.

Not always. As with most construction projects, planning ahead can save aggravation and problems down the road. If you elect to go with a fiberglass tub or shower surround you are typically limited to a framed or semi-frameless enclosure. These products are typically self-supporting and rely less on structural perimeter fastening than heavy-glass frameless enclosures; fiberglass or acrylic walls are typically not strong enough to support the weight of an 80 lb. frameless glass door. Tile, marble, granite and other wall surfaces typically lend themselves better to heavy glass frameless shower enclosures because the walls can be constructed to support the weight of a door. Tile and the Durock wallboard beneath the tile are not alone strong enough to support a door. Therefore, before the Durock is applied, it is extremely important that your builder installs wood reinforcing so that the glass hinges can be screwed through the tile and Durock into wood. This wood reinforcing should be installed in the walls, in-line with the shower threshold; we prefer a 2X6 on-the-flat (5 1/2" facing out)- a single 2x4 is not suitable (See diagram at bottom of this page). Stress plumb walls and level sills to your builder (even if he is installing a fiberglass surround). Although we can work around wall problems, they cost you more money and sometimes require additional framing which can detract from the enclosures appearance.

all surfaces should slope slightly inward toward the shower drain- especially the sill. Level or outward sloping thresholds will leak over time and are not the fault of the enclosure.
the flat surfaces which the enclosure sits on, especially the sill, should be solid surface, 1-piece thresholds. Individual tiles look great until the grout lines crack and water begins to leak.
the shower head(s) and any body sprays should point away from the door- it protects you from getting a cold blast of water when you turn on the shower and helps with the water tightness of the enclosure.
ribbon or ornamental tiles should not be used where the enclosure will attach to the wall- the glass cannot be scribed around irregular surfaces and we will have to cut this tile prior to installation.
frameless enclosures are sometimes (depending upon layout) less water tight than framed enclosures- it stands to reason that overlapping, magnetized metal framing is tighter than an unframed, glass-to-glass joint (another reason not to aim the shower head at the door!)
DON'T FORGET THE WOOD BACKING IN THE WALLS IF YOU WANT FRAMELESS! There is no reliable way for us to determine if the wood exists after the tile is installed- we have to rely on you and your builder. If the wood is not in the wall where it is needed, we cannot accept responsibility.

Contact us! Within our business area, we offer complete measuring and consulting services at no cost. Contact us by telephone if you have any basic design questions



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What types of enclosures are there? There are three categories of shower or tub enclosures; "framed", "semi-frameless" and "frameless". Framed enclosures use metal framing around each piece of glass which makes up the enclosure; there are no exposed edges of glass. Semi-frameless enclosures provide an intermediate step with narrower bands of framing and no framing at all on the top and handle side of the door. Frameless enclosures are designed to minimize the use of framing without sacrificing the structural integrity of the unit; we use as little metal as is possible to provide a safe and structurally sound installation. What are some other considerations when selecting an enclosure? There are 2 general categories of metal framing; aluminum and brass. Aluminum framing can be anodized or painted in a wide variety of different colors and is the least expensive framing option. Brass framing can be polished or plated (chrome, nickel, gold, etc) to take on a variety of different finishes. Brass and plated brass provide for a more lustrous, high-end appearance than aluminum and have a greater lead time and higher cost. Real brass provides a beautiful appearance but does not come with a finish warranty- brass will almost certainly require maintenance in the form of polishing. The largest component of a tub or shower door is the glass. Clear glass is currently the most popular option and can be decorated with a wide variety of borders or patterned etchings. Clear glass tends to "disappear" thereby presenting less of a visual barrier than some other glass options which makes the bathroom feel larger. Keep in mind that it requires regular cleaning to maintain its appearance. Tinted glass is also a transparent glass option. It lends itself better to bright bathrooms since the glass can appear dark. Obscure glass is a rough-rolled, translucent glass option available in a variety of patterns (options vary depending on the style of the enclosure, the manufacturer and the size). Obscure glass provides more privacy and is easier to keep clean but it also presents more of a visual barrier thereby making a small bathroom feel smaller. Can I use any enclosure in any opening? Not always. As with most construction projects, planning ahead can save aggravation and problems down the road. If you elect to go with a fiberglass tub or shower surround you are typically limited to a framed or semi-frameless enclosure. These products are typically self-supporting and rely less on structural perimeter fastening than heavy-glass frameless enclosures; fiberglass or acrylic walls are typically not strong enough to support the weight of an 80 lb. frameless glass door. Tile, marble, granite and other wall surfaces typically lend themselves better to heavy glass frameless shower enclosures because the walls can be constructed to support the weight of a door. Tile and the Durock wallboard beneath the tile are not alone strong enough to support a door. Therefore, before the Durock is applied, it is extremely important that your builder installs wood reinforcing so that the glass hinges can be screwed through the tile and Durock into wood. This wood reinforcing should be installed in the walls, in-line with the shower threshold; we prefer a 2X6 on-the-flat (5 1/2" facing out)- a single 2x4 is not suitable (See diagram at bottom of this page). Stress plumb walls and level sills to your builder (even if he is installing a fiberglass surround). Although we can work around wall problems, they cost you more money and sometimes require additional framing which can detract from the enclosures appearance. Finally, make sure you and your contractor use common sense all surfaces should slope slightly inward toward the shower drain- especially the sill. Level or outward sloping thresholds will leak over time and are not the fault of the enclosure. the flat surfaces which the enclosure sits on, especially the sill, should be solid surface, 1-piece thresholds. Individual tiles look great until the grout lines crack and water begins to leak. the shower head(s) and any body sprays should point away from the door- it protects you from getting a cold blast of water when you turn on the shower and helps with the water tightness of the enclosure. ribbon or ornamental tiles should not be used where the enclosure will attach to the wall- the glass cannot be scribed around irregular surfaces and we will have to cut this tile prior to installation. frameless enclosures are sometimes (depending upon layout) less water tight than framed enclosures- it stands to reason that overlapping, magnetized metal framing is tighter than an unframed, glass-to-glass joint (another reason not to aim the shower head at the door!) DON'T FORGET THE WOOD BACKING IN THE WALLS IF YOU WANT FRAMELESS! There is no reliable way for us to determine if the wood exists after the tile is installed- we have to rely on you and your builder. If the wood is not in the wall where it is needed, we cannot accept responsibility. What happens next? Contact us! Within our business area, we offer complete measuring and consulting services at no cost. Contact us by telephone if you have any basic design questions